Dump your bags in Pension Alfa and stand in the centre of the square. Turn full circle to look at glistening slabs of Neapolitan houses with perfectly piped curls on the roof. Slip behind the church tower, like an illustrated figure in a Christmas card. Follow one perfect curve of Old Town Street after another before you see the glow of Tea Stop One, Coffee and Tea. Pity those walking tiny, coat wearing dogs as you sip something steamy. Sneak up stairs at Strelnice to poke your head around the door of the gilded ballroom. Watch crocodiles of infants in rainbow coloured snowsuits trot past Tea Stop Two, Moccafé. Try U Dvou Kocek for a lunch of full moon like bread dumplings, then go in search of Klokoty monastery and look down on a swathe of fairytale worthy forest. Take Wine Stop One at the Vinotecka Josefa to admire beautifully arched ceilings and tea lights in all the right places. Go fireside at the Zelenhu Stromu for dinner and check out the rogues gallery of regulars at Pivnice Lva. Wash it all down with absinthe at Aux or Motown and wine at MP7 before crossing the square, to bed.
Tea Stop One: Coffee and Tee, Na Trisnim, Betlemska 280
Tea Stop Two: Moccafé, Pražská 232
Wine Stop One: Vinoteck u Josefa, Klokotska 102
U Dvou Kocek, Svatosova
Zelenhu Stromu, Abreiterova 53
Pivnice Lva, Vodni
Aux Cafe, Svatosova 307